Thursday, November 24, 2005

The Nose in a Day (Again?!) - Dehydrated in November

I guess I have no imagination. What did I do a few days after climbing The Nose last week? Call up Mark Melvin of course: so, you want to climb the Nose this Friday?

Mark gave me the I am psyched on that idea… but not really response “Well, I guess that would be ok, but if you find someone else, you should go climb it with them.” Nobody else, dude. Its you, me, and the big stone.

Here is the gear we brought

and a close up of the rack

This time we started an hour later at 7:37 to let the rock warm up. I wanted to climb The Nose in just a t shirt in November. On the first pitch I ran into my old friend Brian Biega who I did one of my first El Cap speed ascents with 9 years earlier. He greeted me ”Good to see you chris. Wait didn’t you guys just climb this last week?!”

“Yeah, I know, I know. It’s kinda silly. But it’s the nose, it’s the best route in the world. I just cant help myself ” I replied. He was going to solo The Nose. I imagine the number of people who have soloed the nose in November can be counted on one hand.

We traveled lighter on this ascent than last week. Only 2 candy bars per person, 1 liter of water, no headlamps, not extra clothes, and less biners. When Mark was leading the third pitch, I actually poured out an extra half liter of water to go lighter. Bad move. Ten minutes later we climbed into the sun and realized this was not your typical November day.

Just above sickle ledge we passed a team of two. One of them called down to me, “Hey SuperTopo! Wait, didn’t you guys just climb this last week?!” I know, I know…

Me jugging right after sickle

Mark in The Stovelegs

I knew we were trouble when we reached Dolt Tower and I was already rationing water. This wasn’t just a warm November day, it was a HOT November day. While the valley high was forecasted at 75, on the wall, with no wind and surrounded by baking granite, it felt more like 80.

Mark leading The Boot Flake

Me belaying the boot flake

Last week, The king was a little tricky for me. This time, I figured out the secret: Swing when you are even with the last bolt on the bolt ladder. This seems really low. But it’s hard to go to low on the King Swing.

Mark mid King Swing

Me jugging up to the great roof

When we got to the great roof, I prepared to take over the lead. Normally bring free shoes for The Nose, but this time I just yanked the laces as tight as I could on my approach shoes. I took a swig from my full 10oz waterbottle and managed to down almost all of it without noticing. I now only had a few sips of water to get me to the top and it just seemed to get hotter and hotter. There was still no wind.

Me in the Changing Corners

On the changing corner’s I yelled down to mark, its not warm up here, it’s hot.”

“Yeah, I know”, he replied.

“No, I mean when its 70 it feels warm. But this feels like 80 or more. This is HOT.”

I wanted some reaction like, “Yeah, this is ridiculous!” But he just let out another “yeah.” He didn’t look psyched. I didn’t look psyched. Neither of us were saying much now. And both of our bodies started to feel the effects of dehydration. My legs and arms got a little heavier and my power began to fade. I compensated by leading the last few pitches with only the pieces I knew I would need: 6 cams and 8 quickdraws.

We got to the top and I watched mark take almost a minute to wrestle the watch out of his pocket. We then spent about 5 minutes trying to subtract our starting time from our ending time… we were so dehydrated now our minds were numb. “Wow, we did it is 5:36… anyway, where can we find some water!”

We found some about half way down the descent. It was warm and had thousands of tiny white floaters in it. I thought it looked suspect. Mark thought it looked great. We both took big swigs.

Ten minutes later I was downclimbing 4th class when I slipped, took a five foot fall, and caught myself before going another 15 feet. Yeah, we were so gone now the descent was feeling harder than the route.

We got back to the road and I took this shot of el cap through the trees. We were psyched, but worked.

So Mark, what you doing next week?

PS: A few people have emailed me asking about our techniques:

- yes we run it out, but never on anything harder than 5.9 or C1. Everything else is well protected.

- short fixing is key. After the leader gets to an anchor, he pulls up the remaining rope, fixes it, and keeps climbing. If the terrain is ever harder than 5.9 or C1, then the leader self belay while waiting for the cleaner.

- the main technique is looking at the whole route as a free climb. I would say 80% of the route is 5.10 or easier. On that other 20%, we try to pull on gear rather than bring out the aiders. And for a small fraction you use aiders but no daisy chains. Even when I am aiding, I am using handholds and the crack so that I can top step every single placement. So I am never in “full aid mode” which goes really slow.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

I am planning on a roped solo 09/09. I'm 54 and training hard, but I'm pretty old school and haven't climbed big walls in a long time. I will spend a month or more climbing in Yosemite before I go solo, including the nose. Which of your speed techniques would help a roped-solo climb?

If I try and go light and run somethings out what is the minimal rack you'd advise.

I hope you don't mind the questions. I just liked your article, attitude, and persistence.

Joe Gaber,
Hua Hin, Thailand

8:10 AM  
Blogger oakleyses said...

kate spade outlet, prada handbags, coach purses, coach factory, michael kors, ray ban sunglasses, tiffany and co, michael kors outlet online, longchamp handbags, tory burch outlet, burberry outlet online, ray ban, michael kors outlet, oakley sunglasses, gucci outlet, ray ban sunglasses, jordan shoes, louis vuitton outlet online, longchamp handbags, toms shoes, louboutin, polo ralph lauren outlet, coach outlet, michael kors outlet online, chanel handbags, chanel handbags, kate spade handbags, louis vuitton handbags, oakley sunglasses, true religion outlet, michael kors, longchamp outlet, true religion jeans, louboutin, nike shoes, polo ralph lauren outlet, true religion, cheap michael kors, nike free, oakley sunglasses, nike air max, air max, coach outlet store, michael kors handbags clearance, prada outlet

10:46 PM  
Blogger oakleyses said...

mac cosmetics, ray ban pas cher, timberland, mulberry, supra shoes, yoga pants, nike air max, north face outlet, burberry, vans, louboutin, new balance shoes, montre pas cher, nike huarache, abercrombie and fitch, birkin bag, converse shoes, longchamp, nike free, north face jackets, air max, beats by dre, louis vuitton, lancel, hollister, karen millen, longchamp, nfl jerseys, michael kors, abercrombie and fitch, mont blanc, rolex watches, ralph lauren, juicy couture outlet, louis vuitton, wedding dresses, oakley pas cher, juicy couture outlet, ralph lauren, hermes, hogan, new balance pas cher, hollister, roshe run, lululemon, nike trainers, reebok outlet, converse pas cher, nike roshe, louis vuitton

10:47 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

ugg outlet
salvatore ferragamo shoes
ugg boots for women
uggs for sale
ralph lauren outlet
ugg outlet online
belstaff jackets
ugg boots for men
michael kors uk
ysl shoes
prada outlet
oakleys sunglasses
cheap nike basketball shoes
nike shox
woolrich outlet
tiffany and co jewelry
parajumper jackets
miu miu bag
gucci handbags
cheap ugg boots
ugg outlet store
louis vuitton outlet
parajumper jacket
jordans 11
vera bradley black friday
ray ban outlet
kevin durant shoes
salvatore ferragamo shoes
marc jacobs handbags
cheap uggs
fendi outlet
rolex watches for sale
uggs on sale
mac cosmetics
kd shoes

6:38 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

2015-10-06 zhengjx
ugg boots sale
Cheap Jordans Shoes For Sale
Cheap Michael Kors Handbags On Sale
michael kors outlet
michael kors bags
cheap louis vuitton
burberry outlet
Ray Ban Sunglasses Outlet Store Online
Michael Kors Outlet Online 70% Off Handbags
uggs outlet
ralph lauren
michael kors outlet
Up To 70% Off Air Retro Jordan 8s
Up to 70% Off Louis Vuitton Outlet
coach factory outlet
Ralph Lauren UK Sale Polo Shirts
Coach Factory Outlet Discount Online
michael kors handbag
Michael Kors Outlet Stores Online
Christian Louboutin Outlet For Women
louis vuitton
Coach Factory Outlet Online Sale Discount
Louis Vuitton Handbags Official USA Website
nike air max
Ugg Boots,Ugg Boots Outlet,Ugg Outlet,Cheap Uggs,Uggs On Sale,Ugg Boots Clearance,Uggs For Women
Louis Vuitton Handbags Factory Outlet
canada goose outlet
michael kors handbags
Coach Factory Outlet Official Coach Handbags Sale
timberland boots

2:07 AM  
Blogger Unknown said...

stuart weitzman boots,
ray ban sunglasses,
black friday deals,
louis vuitton handbags,
nike trainers,
oakley outlet,
lululemon outlet,
roshe run,
soccer jerseys,
cheap mlb jerseys,
replica handbags,
north face jackets,
louis vuitton outlet,
hermes birkin,
kobe bryant shoes,
replica watches,
hollister uk,
ray ban,
prada handbags,
the north face clearance,
cheap nba jerseys,
ray ban sunglasses,
tory burch outlet,
beats headphones,
air max 2014,
cheap nfl jerseys,
montblanc pens,
michael kors outlet store,

3:33 AM  
Blogger Unknown said...

Nike OutletNike Hoodies Tory Burch Flats Marc Jacobs Handbags Jimmy Choo Shoes Jimmy Choos True Religion Outlet ED Hardy Outlet
Burberry Belt Tory Burch Boots Louis Vuitton Belt Ferragamo Belt Marc Jacobs Handbags Lululemon Outlet Christian Louboutin Shoes True Religion Outlet Tommy Hilfiger Outlet
Michael Kors Outlet Coach Outlet Red Bottoms Kevin Durant Shoes New Balance Outlet Adidas Outlet Coach Outlet Online Stephen Curry Jersey Vans Outlet Ralph Lauren Outlet
Ugg Boots Sale UGGS For Women Skechers Go Walk Adidas Yeezy Boost Adidas Yeezy Adidas NMD Coach Outlet North Face Outlet Ralph Lauren Outlet Puma Outlet Polo Outlet

6:26 PM  
Blogger eric yao said...

Coach Outlet

Christian Louboutin Shoes

Valentino Shoes

Michael Kors Outlet

Coach Factory Outlet

Coach Outlet Online

Coach Purses

Kate Spade Outlet

Toms Shoes

Hermes Belts

Louis Vuitton

Fendi Handbags

Giuseppe Shoes

Michael Kors Outlet

Stephen Curry Shoes

Salomon Shoes

North Face Outlet

Coach Outlet

North Face Outlet

Burberry Outlet

North Face Outlet

North Face Jackets

Skechers Shoes

Toms Outlet

North Face Outlet

Nike Air Max

Nike Hoodies

Marc Jacobs Handbags

Marc Jacobs Outlet

Jimmy Choo Shoes

Jimmy Choos

Burberry Belt

Louis Vuitton Belt

Salvatore Ferragamo

Marc Jacobs Handbags

Lululemon Outlet

True Religion Outlet

Tommy Hilfiger

Michael Kors Outlet

Coach Outlet

Red Bottoms

Kevin Durant Shoes

New Balance Outlet

Adidas Outlet

Coach Outlet Online

Stephen Curry Jersey

Vans Outlet

Ralph Lauren Outlet

True Religion Outlet

ED Hardy Outlet

North Face Outlet

UGG Outlet

UGG Outlet

North Face Outlet

Ugg Boots Sale

UGGS For Women

Skechers Go Walk

Adidas Yeezy Boost

Adidas Yeezy

Adidas NMD

Coach Outlet

5:16 PM  
Blogger raybanoutlet001 said...

michael kors handbags
the north face
ghd flat iron
armani exchange outlet
fitflops sale clearance
dolce and gabbana shoes
salomon boots
new orleans saints jerseys
nike blazer
cheap nba jerseys

9:49 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

nike blazer shoes
supra shoes
polo ralph lauren
true religion
oakley sunglasses wholesale
christian louboutin uk
toms shoes
true religion jeans
cheap nfl jerseys
michael kors handbags

1:06 AM  
Blogger Unknown said...

michael kors
mont blanc pens
tory burch outlet stores
polo outlet
ugg outlet
reebok trainers
cheap ray ban sunglasses
louis vuitton handbags
coach factory outlet

11:49 PM  
Blogger Admin said...

If you have a history of illness that is difficult to recover, maybe our next article will help you to recover

Obat untuk sakit pada tulang
Obat Campak
Obat Sakit Tenggorokan
Obat Pengering Luka Diabetes
Obat prurigo

1:54 AM  
Blogger rokaa said...

ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بالخبر
ارخص شركة مكافحة الحشرات بالخبر
ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بمكة ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بمكة
ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بالمدينة المنورة ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بالمدينة المنورة
ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بالدمام ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بالدمام
ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بالاحساء ارخص شركة مكافحة حشرات بالاحساء

7:57 AM  
Anonymous Penyebab Mata Kabur dan Berbayang said...

The article is good. Also visit my article, read and share too. God willing useful. :)

Cara Mengobati Penyakit Kolera
Obat Benjolan di Rahim/Mulut Rahim
KurmaQu Sari Kurma dan Madu Murni

10:57 PM  
Anonymous Entertainment said...

If you want to spend your extra time to watching some amazing entertainment show, so you are at right place please click here :

1:06 AM  
Anonymous bloggingacadem said...

A new emerging platform in the world of Blogging and SEO. Providing its experience from the Experts to users to learn in a friendly manner.

5:09 AM  

Post a Comment

<< Home