Monday, November 29, 2010

Brazil Granite Bouldering By The Ocean

I went to Brazil for six days of surfing and six days of a wedding party for Corey and Marina Rich. I didn't think there would be much if any climbing but I threw in my climbing shoes just in case. Turns out, there was bouldering 30 feet away from the surf break! Read my Brazil Climbing trip report.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Help Access Fund Unlock Jailhouse

The Access Fund is pleased to announce that it has secured permanent access to Jailhouse Rock, near Sonora California, through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign.

However we need your help!
The current parking lot and approach trail still cross private land, which is up for sale. The Access Fund has secured a route to the cliff through a different access point, but we need your help to raise $40k in the next 12 months to build a new parking area and trailhead, cover insurance and closing costs, and build a stewardship fund to protect Jailhouse for years to come.

You can help protect access to one of the best sport climbing destinations in the country! Please give to the Access Fund Unlock Jailhouse Campaign today!

Thanks for your support,

Your Friends at the Access Fund

Tuesday, November 02, 2010

Camping Stove Awards announced by Gear Reviews

Camping Stove Awards announced by Gear Reviews for Editor’s Choice, Best Buy and Recommended.
November 1, 2010

MILL VALLEY,, one of the most popular climbing web sites in the world, revealed today the results of the SuperTopo 2010 Editors’ Choice Awards for Camping Stove category, listing this year’s camp stoves and best value for camp stoves. The staff chose the following winners after extensive field testing and road trips in Yosemite, Squamish and Smith Rocks. Each pad underwent extensive side by side tests to evaluate key performance metrics such as packed size, weight, speed, control, versatility, set up time, stability, durability and wind resistence. View the complete camping stove review

The winners are:
MSR Reactor – winner of the Editor's Choice Award for 2010 for camp stoves. According to gear tester Max Neale, "The MSR Reactor is the fastest, easiest to use, and most stormproof camping stove we tested. It’s designed to provide all-conditions performance for one to three people, but lacks the ability to simmer and functions poorly on low. Regardless of how inclement the conditions, this stove is insanely fast at boiling water, but remains incapable of doing much else. Get this if you voyage to harshest of climates with two to four people." Full MSR Reactor review at

MSR Whisperlite - winner of the Best Buy award for 2010. This award is given to a product that balances an extremely high score in our tests and a very reasonable price. According to Max Neale, "Since its introduction in 1982, the Whisperlite has proven itself as the most versatile and dependable, lightweight, liquid fuel, portable stoves on the market. If we were to have one stove this would be it."

JetBoil Flash- winner of the Recommended award for 2010. This award is given to products that scored very highly, and offered unique capabilities. According to Max Neale, "The Jetboil Flash takes fast, light, and efficient to a whole new level in this updated version of a revolutionary camping stove. Whether you’re melting snow in Alaska, making coffee on a big wall, or boiling water for dehydrated food on a backpacking trip, this stove will be your smallest and warmest backcountry friend. Key features include a 1L insulated pot, piezo auto ignition, water temperature indicator, and a lock that secures the stove and pot in one stable unit. This is our top pick for minimalist activities."

MSR DragonFly- winner of a Recommended award for 2010. According to Chris McNamara, "Bringing you as close as possible to a professional range, the MSR Dragonfly is a luxuriously well handling stove. Its stability and ease of use make it our top choice for base camp. Unfortunately, a large and heavy frame makes it cumbersome for those who are primarily concerned with size and weight. We believe the smaller, lighter, quieter, cheaper, and slightly faster MSR Whisperlite is a better choice for backpacking."

Soto OD-1R winner of the Recommended award for 2010. According to Max Neale, "The Soto OD-1R is the best small canister portable stove we reviewed. It’s not only tiny and super lightweight, but also includes a piezo igniter and pressure regulator that allows you to cook at high altitudes and in cold temperatures."

Monday, November 01, 2010

SuperTopo Newsletter - November 1, 2010

Just received this from Mike Gauthier: I received one of those dreaded phone calls early this morning with the news that my good friend Joe Puryear died while ascending Labuche Kang (7,367 meters, 24,170 feet) in a remote region of Tibet. Joe was a former climbing ranger on Mount Rainier and one of America’s elite alpinists. >>Read More

Essential Aid Climbing Gear
Clean Aid Protection
Haulbags, Hauling and Bivy Gear
The Best Camp Stove Review
MSR Reactor Win's Editor's Choice
JetBoil Flash Winds Recommended Award
20+ new gear reviews videos to YouTube

Leo Houlding Climbs New Free Route on El Capitan
Exciting Deep Water Comp in Spain with Chris Sharma
Climber loses thumb on The Nose - El Capitan - Yosemite
New Book on Yosemite Climbing History -
El Cap Storm Photos with links pics and vid of climbers caught in waterfall

North America Wall, El Capitan
9-Year-Olds First TR
Cloudveil Dome/Fall Ice Stoke/Climbing with old dudes
I Love The Desert (a Puryear Great)
North Face Middle Teton--Robbins and Breashers routes... Stoke for fall ice
My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master

The first ever ropeless climbof Yosemite’s sheer 2,000 foot wall of Half Dome. The longest BASE jump achieved, from the infamous Eiger Nordwand. A tragic expedition to the lost peaks of Western China. These are just a few of the amazing feats and personal journeys featured in the First Ascent Box Set. And you get a free SuperTopo book >>Read More…